![]() ![]() How to choose the weight of your interfacing fabricĪs a general rule of thumb, the weight or thickness of your interfacing should match your fabric. For example, if you were to use woven interfacing to a knit fabric, you would reduce the fabric’s stretch properties, so you need to use knit interfacing if your pattern requires it. It is produced by knitting the fibres together, which allows you to maintain the stretchiness of your garment. If you are using a knitted or stretchy jersey fabric, knit interfacing is the choice for you. This is often the simplest material to use and is suitable for most garments - providing you with almost endless dressmaking possibilities. It has no grain, can be cut any direction and won’t fray. It is made by bonding fibres together which gives it a very thin feel. Unlike woven interfacing, this type of interfacing is more like paper. As this material is trickier to work with, woven interfacing is normally only used for particularly fine materials such as sheers and silks. One of the important things to remember about woven interfacing is the fact that this type of interfacing will have a selvedge and therefore a grainline, so you need to make sure you follow the grainline just as you would when cutting out your main fabric. This type of interfacing looks like regular woven fabric which feels, looks, and moves like fabric - albeit a thicker one. You do not want to adversely affect the shaping of the garment and give it a poor finish. Only use sew-in interfacing if you are completely comfortable handling multiple layers of fabric on the sewing machine. However, if you are working on beginner sewing projects, you will be absolutely fine with fusible interfacing. This type of interfacing is ideal when you have a fabric that cannot be ironed or has texture. It can be sewn onto the main fabric just like another normal layer of fabric, often resulting in a more natural shape and drape without any stiffness to it. Unlike fusible interfacing, this fabric does not have a glue backing, so you have to sew it in and attach it yourself. Very textured fabrics should also be avoided, as the glue won’t bond well to the fabric. It works well on most garments, except on certain fabrics that don't like heat or are woven loosely, as this can cause the glue to seep through. If you are just starting out in dressmaking this fabric is going to be a lot easier and more convenient to use. With a heat activated adhesive on one side, this type of interfacing is the easiest to use as it only needs to be heated up with the iron and it will permanently stick to the fabric. When designing your piece, it is important to make the right choice, as this decision can really influence the final look of your garment. In general, interfacing comes in two main types, fusible or sew-in, as well as three main weaves (non-woven, woven and knit), and different weights. There are so many different types of interfacing fabrics to choose from, it can be quite overwhelming. ![]() Garments like jackets and coats use a lot of interfacing fabrics, as this helps to retain their shape and ensure they don’t distort with regular wear and tear. For example, if you are designing a pair of trousers with buttons, there needs to be a stabliser to prevent the buttons from ripping off and damaging the fabric. There are a variety of dressmaking pieces which are stronger and last longer when they have been stablised with interfacing fabric. It is used as an additional layer which is applied to the inside of garments, such as collars, cuffs, waistbands and pockets, helping to add firmness, shape, structure, and support to the clothes. Interfacing is a fabric which is used to make certain parts of a garment more stable. Therefore, here at Fabrics Galore, we have put together this guide to help you understand how to use interfacing fabric. Although it’s not the most exciting topic, it can be a very confusing aspect of dressmaking - understandably for beginners - as it can be challenging to find good advice on how to choose, buy and apply interfacing. If you are a beginner to sewing and dressmaking, it will only be a matter of time before you come across the need for interfacing fabric.
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